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What is leather ?

Chemical composition

The chemical composition of fresh hides and skins falls approximately within the following limits:

Water 60% - 65%
Protein 25% - 30%
Fats 5% - 10%

 
Note
Tanners use the terms hide and skin to distinguish the size of the animal they came from - hides come from larger animals such as cattle and skins come from smaller animals such as sheep, goats and pigs.

The protein content consists mainly of collagen, and it is this collagen that is transformed into leather by the tanning process.

Physical structure

The epidermis is a thin layer of cells that serves as a protective layer during the life of the animal. It is continually replaced during growth, the lower layers of cells being the newest and least stable. The epidermis is removed before tanning, along with the hair, in a process called liming.

The grain layer, or corium minor, consists of a dense layer of collagen and elastin protein fibres. The structure varies according to the animal breed, age, sex and health and is frequently marked by scratches and the bites of parasitic insects. The grain layer gives leather its distinctive appearance.

 
Physical structure of skin
click to enlarge
     

The corium major consists of a dense layer of collagen protein fibres, arranged in larger bundles, and interwoven to give the structure high strength, elasticity and durability. The corium major increases in thickness and density with increasing age, thus calfskins are thinner, smoother and softer than the hides of mature animals; cow hides are smoother, thinner and softer than the hides of mature males and bull hides are thick, tough, coarse grained and very strong.

Thick hides are normally split layerwise through the corium layer to give a 'grain split', used for grain leather, and a 'flesh split' mainly used for suede leather. Sometimes an artificial grain layer is applied to one side of the flesh split to make it look like grain leather, known as 'finished split', although the result is not as strong as real grain leather because the corium lacks the strength of the grain layer.

 

 
   
 
© 2002 BLC Leather Technology Centre